Every July Fourth, announcers retell the same origin story before Nathan’s Famous Hot Dog Eating Contest: In 1916, four immigrants on Coney Island settled an argument over who was the most patriotic American by seeing who could eat the most hot dogs in 12 minutes. James Mullen, an Irish immigrant, won with 13.
It never happened.
‘A hot dog is like a pop idol. Hot dogs are cute.’
The story was invented in the early 1970s by two Nathan’s press agents, Max Rosey and Mortimer Matz, who needed a brand-new publicity stunt to make the contest look like a decades-old American tradition.
In 2010, Matz admitted to the New York Times: “In Coney Island pitchman style, we made it up.” A Nathan’s spokesman later confirmed the company “had no evidence of the contest” before Matz and Rosey got involved.
The fabrication came well embellished. The dates weren’t even fixed yet — early contests popped up near Memorial Day, Labor Day, and once in April. Some versions of the legend cast entertainer Jimmy Durante as a competitor, judged by Eddie Cantor and Sophie Tucker.
According to a former president of Nathan’s, the real first contest happened in 1972. “We’d honestly wait for a couple of fat guys to walk by and ask them if they wanted to be in a hot dog contest,” said Wayne Norbitz, who served as president for 26 years.
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Nathan’s still markets the event as an unbroken tradition dating back to 1916. It’s a strange irony for a holiday built around an honest declaration.
Six-time champion Takeru Kobayashi, known as “The Tsunami,” was once asked point-blank whether a hot dog counts as a sandwich.
“No! No. You have to have a lot of respect for hot dogs. It’s completely different. First of all, the hot dog is American. Sandwiches are not American. They’re different. Second of all, a hot dog is like a pop idol. Hot dogs are cute. It’s a pop image — everyone knows what a hot dog is.”
Anthony Bourdain called the bun “a ballistic delivery system” and warned that ordering a “hot dog sandwich” at any respectable stand would get you reported to the FBI. The National Hot Dog and Sausage Council agrees, officially classifying the hot dog as its own category rather than a subtype of sandwich.
Maybe the only thing more mythical than Nathan’s 1916 origin story is the idea that anyone has actually settled what a hot dog is.
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